2007 Domaine de Chassorney Bourgogne Chardonnay ‘Bigotes’

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Winemaker Frédéric Cossard has set up his domaine just on the outskirts of Saint Romain and is recognised as one of the finest producers of natural wine in Burgundy. His vineyards are organically farmed and his winemaking approach is ‘hands-off’ to allow the fruit to speak of the land itself. Bugger all sulphur in this one with just a tiny dab at bottling.

Pale yellow gold in colour. Quite a generous nose of peach and melon fruit with a touch of honey and hints of soft spice, nougat, porridge and marzipan. It smells clean and vinous with a dab of white flower high tones for good measure. A racy entry onto the palate with an initial burst of lemony citrus and white peach fruit. There is a hint of milky lees character and soft spice that flows into a bracing line of malic twang before settling down to a medium length finish with a waft of lemon curd and oatmeal. Quite lean and crystalline in structure with a steely, mineral texture. A wine that demands food and a delicious one at that.

Rated: Very Good

Value: (Recommended)