Quinta do Vallado 20 Year Old Tawny Port

Christiano Van Zellar is the man behind Quinta do Vale D. Maria. His family were previously owners of Quinta do Noval, and he is also involved in the estate of Quinta do Vallado where he acts as a consultant for manager Francisco Ferreira.

Quinta do Vallado has been in the Ferreira family since 1818…it went through refurbs in the 1960’s and the estate now consists of 68ha of vines at around 300m and a gravity fed winery that was completed in 1997.

Quinta do Vallado 20 Year Old Tawny Port

Endless layers on the palate with the wine morphing every couple of minutes to show new characters…oodles of dried fruit, raisin, mahogany, old furniture, honey, clove, roasted nuts, panetone and the light and shade of a variety of spice. Quite an ethereal finish…the length is staggering and carries on for minutes.

After 20 years the wine itself and the oak are just a memory within the softened spirit and the result is a captivating and beautiful tawny port that comes highly recommended.

Rated: Outstanding
Value:
RRP: $170
Alcohol: 17%
Closure: Cork
Drink: 2012-2040
Tasted: 15/07/09 Open Label
Distributor: The Spanish Aquisition

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Domaine A.-F. Gros Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits 2002

Domaine A.-F. Gros Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits 2002

I bought a few bottles of this a few years ago, trying to find a good value Bourgogne, which should be easier in years like 2002. I think I paid $35, and in hindsight I am not unhappy with the return on investment. Some browning near the rim. Cherries, brown earth, stalk, musky minerals with a touch of dried ginger and brown sugar. The palate was initially a little unfriendly, but opened up nicely to show sweet fruits, glacé cherries, stalk, pepper, minerals and a touch of sap on the finish. Pleasantly weighted but not terribly complex. Drink over the short term.

Rated: Good
Value:
RRP: $35
Alcohol: 12,5%
Closure: Cork
Drink: 2009-2012
Tasted: 21/11/09 Open Label
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Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage 2006

Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage 2006

One of the more traditionalist….shall we say ‘true’ producers in the Northern Rhone….Chave have vines in 9 of the 18 vineyards the cover the hill of Hermitage. The estate has been passed down from father to son since it was established in 1481 and is situated in the tiny village of Mauves near Cornas.

Appellation laws decree that 15% white grapes are allowed in red Hermitage and the J.L. Chave monopole L’Hermite is a fruit salad block with Marsanne and Roussanne mixed in with the red varieties. Other famous vineyards that make the final wine are parcels from Les Bessards, Le Méal and Les Roucoles.

With a strict selection criteria in the vineyard, the batches are largely destemmed, vinified seperately and tend to see very little new oak and little intervention….the resulting wine is argueably the best example of Hermitage from the appellation….certainly no arguement from me.

Deep red/purple/black in colour with concentrated aromas of blackberry, blackcurrant, plum and wild raspberry with splashes of crushed rock, grilled meats, black pepper, bitter chocolate, Asian spice and violets.

In the mouth the wine is moody, pure and heady in its concentration. Blackberry, blackcurrant, cassis and plum flavours take the front backed up by dabs of hearty spice, roasted meats, licorice, pepper, earth and chocolate. Seamless oak integration and rich, unctuous fruit flavours flow through the palate….well proportioned and weighty in texture with ripe, fine-grained tannins and a lovely line of bright acidity….everything in its place.

Rated: Classic
Value:
RRP: $350
Alcohol: 14%
Closure: Cork
Drink: 2012-2040
Tasted: 07/09/09 Open Label
Distributor: Negociants

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Stephane Aladame Montagny 1er cru 2007

Stephane Aladame Montagny 1er cru 2007

From the Côte Chalonnaise, which lies south of the Côte d’Or, and though considered part of Burgundy, it does not contain any Grand Cru vineyards. I suppose this makes it a poorer cousin, but it can be keenly priced and for those not obsessed with having “Meursault”, “Puligny” or “Chassagne” on the label, can provide a rewarding experience.

Anyways, on to the wine, which is a cracker. Strongly aromatic, with lemon and white peach, vanilla and cream and a touch of nuttiness. The palate showed grapefruit, lemon, spice and cream. There is a lot of sweet fruit running through the mid-palate, but this is balanced by a fine line of acid and a drying mineral edge. Focused, with great length, and positively gnawish. For a French White Burgundy retailing at $50 or thereabouts, it offers tremendous value and excellent quality.

Rated: Very Good
Value:
RRP: $50
Alcohol: 13%
Closure: Cork
Drink: 2009-2015
Tasted: 11/11/09 Open Label
Distributor: Eurocentric Wine

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Domaine A. et P. De Villaine Mercurey Les Montets 2007

Domaine A. et P. De Villaine Mercurey Les Montets 2007

Yes, the “A” in the wine name does stand for Aubert, the same Aubert de Villaine who is the co-owner and the co-director of the Domaine de la Romanee-Conti. Based in the Côte Chalonnaise in Bouzeron, they produce several red and white wines from this region.

A light and clear red in colour. A delicate nose; lightly spiced and lifted red fruits, minerals, animalé, with a touch of clean earth. The fruits are in the red cherry spectrum with perhaps some softly pressed strawberries. The palate is pleasant, gentle red fruits with a fair vein of rich minerals cutting through them; a bit austere and underweight without food, but has purity and some charm. Now even though it is from what might be considered a lesser appelation, it certainly improved with time in the glass and especially overnight, and according to their website and the wisdom of Allen Meadows, it is a wine that should be able to take some medium term cellaring. So leave it alone!

Rated: Very Good
Value:
RRP: $55
Alcohol: 12.5%
Closure: Cork
Drink: 2013+
Tasted: 12/11/09 Open Label
Winery Website: Domaine de Villaine

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Gallivanting…

File photo - Nick C & Nick R, they both have a lot more hair than this now.

The two Nicks (Ryan and Crampton) are currently in France and on their way to the Hospices de Beaune barrel tasting… its tough for them, but someone had to do the hard yards for Eutopia. It was no surprise when they both volunteered.

They will be posting on Eutopia when their very demanding schedule allows, but Nick C will also be doing the odd twitter, so follow him if you are interested - http://twitter.com/NCrampoEutopia

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Trimbach Clos Ste.Hune Riesling 2000

Trimbach Clos ste. Hune Riesling 2000

In typical French style the Trimbach monopole, Clos Ste.Hune cannot be labelled as Grand Cru as it is actually a sub-plot of the Grand Cru Rosacker vineyard in the village of Hunawihr…..and that ain’t allowed.

Faced with the choice of labelling the wine as Rosacker Grand Cru with no mention of the Clos or giving the vineyard the recognition it deserved and dropping the Grand Cru off the label Trimbach chose the later….good decision.

The tiny, 1.38ha walled Clos Ste.Hune vineyard was first bottled in 1919 and is to this day is one of Frances greatest white wines. Prior to 1919, in the best vintages Trimbach would relase a wine from the vineyard called ‘Riesling de Hunawihr’ so if you see some of this floorstacked at your nearest boozatorium snap it up!

The vineyard has a South-Easterly exposure and is not as steep as some of the surrounding cru’s but it does have the highest limestone content of any of the Grand Cru’s….the yields are low here too….at least three times lower than the average in Alsace….couple this with one of the coolest sites and the result is a piercing, concentrated, long lived Riesling that really needs at least a decade in the cellar to hit its straps.

Pale yellow gold and at nine years of age just starting to strut its stuff. Quite an expressive wine yet still youthful, tightly bound. rich and concentrated aromas of grapefruit, lime, paw paw and stonefruits with hints of hay, petrol, white flowers, spice and a deep minerality that is heady in the glass.

The palate is quite full-bodied for a Riesling and shows amazing concentration of flavour….pure citrus and stonefruits dotted with stony, slatey facets, spice and floral nuance. Very intense depth of fruit with amazing cut and verve.

A cracking wine of impeccable balance and poise and one that absolutely sings of its terroir…..awesome stuff!

Rated: Classic
Value:
RRP: $200
Alcohol: 13%
Closure: Cork
Drink: Now-2030
Tasted: 07/11/09 Open Label
Distributor: Fesq & Company
Winery Website: Trimbach

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Fattori Valparadiso Pinot Grigio IGT 2008

Fattori Valparadiso Pinot Grigio IGT 2008

The fruit for this Pinot Grigio is sourced from three sites in the volcanic hills around the Fattori winery in Ronco. The vines average 15 years of age and are trellised on guyot at around 250m above sea-level.

Pale yellow in hue with green flashes. Intense, clean, vibrant nose of apple, grapefruit and pear with hints of spice, herbs, marzipan, estery banana aromas and elderflower cordial.

There is an intitial crisp attack of pear and citrus fruits on the palate slowly subsiding to show hints of spice, almond paste, herbs, minerals and fennel with some estery banana and pineapple characters.

Surprisingly weighty in the mouth with plenty of texture and mouthfeel. Good drive and showing a racy, cleansing acidity the wine finishes crisply and invites another glass. A great food style.

Rated: Very Good
Value:
RRP: $29
Alcohol: 13%
Closure: Diam
Drink: Now-2012
Tasted: 11/11/09 Open Label
Distributor: Deja Vu
Winery Website: Fattori

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Clos des Papes Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc 2007

Clos des Papes Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc 2007

There is some pretty serious spin going around about the 2007 Rhone vintage and quite a few are rocking up into the country at the moment.

The Clos du Papes CNdP Blanc 2007 has been out for a little while now and is a blend of equal parts of all six permitted white varieties under the appellation laws…..Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, Clairette, Picardin, Roussanne, and Picpoul.

Bright pale yellow in colour with aromas of pear, peach and citrus fruits with hints of marzipan, noughat, fennel, spice, smoke, stone and honeysuckle.

It’s quite textured in the mouth with an almost oily feel and a weighty drag across the palate. The flavours are predominately citrus and stonefruits with spice, aniseed and noughat notes. It’s fairly full-bodied and there is a touch of alcohol poking its nose out on the lingering finish.

No lack of concentration and richness here but 15% alcohol is a concern and it does no favours for the wines balance.

Rated: Very Good
Value:
RRP: $90
Alcohol: 15%
Closure: Cork
Drink: Now-2016
Tasted: 28/9/09 Open Label
Distributor: Vintage and Vine

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Eutopia Wine Tasting – Sydney Wed 25 Nov & Melbourne Fri 27 Nov

You are invited to join the Eutopia crew for a bit of early Christmas cheer, with an informal (and free) tasting of modern French wines. Tastings will be held in both Sydney and Melbourne.

We’ll have a wide range of wines to explore from Burgundy, Rhone and the South of Franceso you can try the lot, or just grab a quick glass or two… In the usual Eutopia style we’ll cover affordable, everyday wines through to some of France’s finest wines.

Feel free to come along for the whole evening, or just drop in for a while, and your friends are also welcome. We look forward to seeing you! 

Click on “Read More” for details of locations, dates and times.

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