And all those crazy-eyed “Chinois” that are around this year in huge numbers, the Chinese wine buyers and journalists who might not quite be used to drinking 200 samples a day and scare the bejesus out of you when they stagger around a corner, covered in red wine….heads tilted just so revoking images of the zombie hordes from Dawn of the Dead.

I pulled into a new hotel today after two days based in Saint-Estephe in the Northern Medoc. My new digs… the achingly beautiful “Les Sources de Caudalie” in Pessac right next door to Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafite.

In fact the famous leaping bunny is visible from the lobby where I am typing now….obviously taking flight from the scene that awaited me when I arrived. A car accident had occured in the driveway and the two animated drivers were yelling both at each other and the poor tow truck driver that had come to survey their wine fueled foolishness.

Making a beeline for reception, I was greeted by a poor recepionist doing her best to operate in an area where every available flat surface was covered in wine samples for James Suckling of the Wine Spectator who is staying at the same hotel.

Apart from all the madness, the rushing to and from appointments, the pomp and ceremony, the lunches and dinners the 2009 does have one thing….the wines overall are a very, very impressive bunch.

There are some high alcohols, and some contrived examples that are obviously point chasers but for the most part the wines are balanced, show fantastic fruit density and concentration, plenty of extract and plenty of swaggering, gravelly tannins. There is some nice acidity present also and many people are saying this is the greatest vintage since 1982…. heard yesterday that the big bloke himself called it the greatest en primeur campaign he has ever covered……he could be right.

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We are off to Dusseldorf first up to visit Prowein….arguably the most important trade event for the wine sector in Europe.

We’ll then head to Burgundy for some individual producer visits as well as attending the Les Grand Jours de Bourgogne, a week long event for trade and journalists showcasing the wines of each village or terroir in the region.

After Burgundy it is off to Spain to visit producers in Rias Biaxas, and Bierzo before heading to Rioja to catch up with fellow Aussie and all round good bloke, Scott Wasley of Melbourne based importers, The Spanish Acquisition.

From Spain, we’ll move to Bordeaux, jump on the journo bus and get stuck into a week of intense barrel tasting for the much-hyped 2009 vintage en primeur campaign. We’ll be running a live en primeur twitter feed during this event so make sure you follow our twitter feed at the bottom of this post to get all the latest on the tastings and general Bordeaux gossip.

Next up it is down to San Sebastian for a report on the pinxos bar scene and a visit to the hallowed ground of uber-grill, Etxebarri to see what all the fuss is about.

And then off to Paris for three days of scouring the city in search of the funkiest new wine bars and most rummage-worthy wine stores to set you up for your next trip to the city of light.

http://twitter.com/eutopiawine

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** The Fontanafredda dinner is now SOLD OUT **

Our next event is on the horizon for all you Melbournians - a six course dinner highlighting the best white and red wines of Piedmont’s Fontanafredda. We hope you can join us on Tuesday, 16 March at Sette Bello in Glen Waverley. For more information and to purchase tickets ($85pp or $75 for tables of 8 or more), click here.

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Maitre Renard Burgundy Chardonnay 2008

A great little wine that represents superb value and one that newcomers to imported wines will feel comfortable with. For starters it’s sealed with a screwcap….it’s also varietally labelled and has a distinct lack of confusing guff on the front label and back labels.

The wine is from winemaker Bernard Schurr who has applied his previous experience in Bordeaux and the South of France to fruit purchased from Marsannay and the Haute-Cotes de Nuits. The wine goes through a partial barrel ferment with battonage and 25% will see six months in new and older oak barrels while the remainder settles in stainless steel.

In the glass the wine is pale straw in hue and displays forward fruit aromas of melon, nectarine and white peach with a touch of grapefruit. There is a light dusting of soft spice, white flowersd, minerals and noughat but the appealing feature here is the bright, generous stone fruit characters on display.

In the mouth the wine again displays, lovely, clean, generous stone fruit characters with peach and nectarine the most obvious and some citrus flourishes. The are hints of white flowers and spice and the wine is balanced with the supple fruit nicely set off by the wines minerally acidity.

There is a lot to like here and a wine like the Maitre Renard provides a great introduction to the wines of France and a stepping stone for a deeper investigation of the subject. As a pouring wine in a bistro…..this ones a no-brainer.

Rated: Very Good
Value: 4 out of 5 stars
RRP: $24
Alcohol: 13%
Closure: Screwcap
Drink: 2010-2011
Tasted:December 2009 Open Label
Importer: Fourth Wave Wines

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Lis Neris Fiore di Campo 2007

Here’s a fantastic, idiosyncratic wine produced from Fruili’s native Tocai Friulano variety……although this will soon be labelled just Fruilano….Australia isn’t the only country with EU labelling law issues.

The Les Neris estate lies in San Lorenzo…..a small village on a plateau within the Isonzo DOC….way up near the Slovanian border. Lis Neris have 45 ha under vine here…..the soils are limestone-rich with a healthy dose of gravel and the plantings are a mix of Fruilano, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Grigio.

Pale straw in colour with aromas of grapefuit and lemon zest with a healthy serving of funk…..lots of nettley, sulphidy goodies with floral flourishes and hints of freshly sliced fennel, toast, almonds and marzipan.

There is quite a lot of substance on the palate…it’s well weighted and flavoursome with a great line of vivid, minerally acidity that is sparkling clean and begs another mouthful.

Again… zesty citrus fruits with hints of nettle, cream, white flowers, fennel, toasted almonds and marzipan. Plenty of character and personality here with lovely clean fruit, unencumbered by oak….it’s balanced, taut and refreshingly good to drink.

Rated: Very Good
Value: 4 out of 5 stars
RRP: $40
Alcohol: 13.5%
Closure: Diam
Drink: 2010-2014
Tasted: 23/11/09 Open Label
Importer: Negociants

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For Piedmont that time is late Autumn.

Piedmont is a place that wears brown well. Burnt umber, burnished bronze and tarnished copper too.

Don’t get me wrong, Piedmont’s pretty darn speccy at any time and I first fell in love with the place in spring when the vines have full foliage and blossom bursts from the trees.

But Autumn just seems so right here, the contours of the landscape fully exposed, bare vines running up steep slopes to medieval hilltop towns, a gentle chill in the air.

Vineyards in Piedmont

It looks right. It feels right. And it sure as hell tastes right.

For a start it doesn’t hurt that it’s white truffle season. More than enough funghi-erotic writing has been inspired by the glories of the white truffle and I don’t intend to add to the gushing torrent here other than to say you haven’t lived until you’ve eaten a bowl of handmade pasta in a medieval Piemontese castle that’s had a truffle the size of a cricket ball shaved all over it.

But even more importantly it’s a time when it just seems right to be drinking nebbiolo.

It’s a time when you turn to you glass looking for substance and depth, for tar and earth and a touch of floral lift, for beautifully etched dark fruit flavours and tightly woven tannins.

There’s something deeply satisfying about these great Barolos and Barbarescos, a completeness to them that makes them truly special.

They are great wines in any context. They are life-changers when you drink them within view of the vineyards that gave rise to them.

A lot of people would plump for Burgundy when it comes to which region offers the most complete package when it comes to pleasing the mind, mouth and stomach. And they’d almost be right.

But for me it has to Piedmont.

Although I’m sketchy on Spain and to my sausage-eating shame have never been to Alsace, I’m going to lay it on the line and say that no region on earth can outgun the sensory delights of Piedmont and if I could only ever visit one wine region for the rest of my life then this would be it.

Where to eat:

OSTERIA LA LIBERA
Via E. Pertinace n. 24/a Alba (CN)
Tel. 0173,293155
Brilliant modern take on local classics. A must.

TRATTORIA DELLA POSTA
Fraz. S. Anna n. 87 Monforte (CN)
Tel. 0173,78120
An institution doing high-end regional cuisine in one of the Langhe’s prettiest towns.

TRATTORIA ANTICA TORRE
Via Torino Barbaresco (CN)
Tel. 0173,635170
Simple but soulful. A perfect lunch spot in the heart of Barbaresco.

Da Cesare at Fontanafredda
via Alba 15
12050 Serralunga d’Alba (CN)
Tel. 0173 520141
The region’s most uncompromising chef beating his own drum within the historic grounds of Fontanafredda.

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Pra Staforte Soave Classico 2005

A step up from the Pra Soave Classico and if you tilt your head just right….one that could be stylistically compared to a Hunter Semillon with a bit of age under its belt.

Sergio and Graziano Pra are the men behind this 20ha estate near Monteforte (one called Staforte in the Middle Ages….hence the name) in Veneto’s Soave Classico district.

100% Gargenaga, matured in stainless steel….the tanks actually have paddles on the base which turn to keep the fine lees in suspension….this takes place for 6-8 months before bottling.

Light, pale gold in colour with aromas of pear, grapefruit and stone-fruits with hints of toast, hay, soft spices, hazelnut and minerals…it is a quite rich smelling wine with flashes of marzipan and nougat in the ofactory fringes.

The richness on the nose flows onto the palate which shows and fantastic, creamy texture from the lees work, lovely palate weight and an incisive drive across the palate. Again, citrus and stonefruits predominately with soft spice, almond and hazelnuts, white flowers and a clean line of minerally acidity.

The wine shows great harmony and finishes with a lingering vapour tail of toastiness….superb stuff….would be awesome with grilled Coffin Bay Scallops.

Rated: Outstanding
Value: 4 out of 5 stars
RRP: $60
Alcohol: 13.5%
Closure: Cork
Drink: 2010-2016
Tasted: 23/11/09 Open Label
Importer: Negociants

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Brezza Barbera d'Alba 2006

The name Brezza is best known for their brilliant Barolo’s they produce…..Bricco Sarmassa, Cannubi, Sarmassa, and Castellero…. from their 22 ha estate.

The vineyards here date back to 1885 and Giacomo Brezza bottled the first wine in 1910…..95% of the wines here are red….all authentic, robust, good value offerings and one of the pleasing thing about the wines is the estates willingness to adopt an alternative closure for our market…namely vino-lok.

Again….DOCG laws forbid the use of some closures so the Barolo’s will remain under cork for the time being but we can get the Nebbiolo d’Alba, Barbera d’Alba, Dolcetto d’Alba, Langhe Freisa, and Langhe Chardonnay under the Vino-lok which is a great thing….it’s a slow process.

This particular Barbera vineyard was planted in the Barolo commune in 1968 at 200m altitude on silty,sand soils with underlying clay. Hand-picked and de-stemmed the wine spends one year in large Slovanian oak before bottling and another six months in bottle before release.

Deeply coloured with inviting, savoury aromas of plum, blackberry and cherry with hints of spice, tobacco leaf, licorice with a hint of truffle.

Lovely weight in the mouth with a distinct savoury lean….again lots of red and dark fruit characters….cherry, plum and the like….there is a shrill acidity here….that probably sounds a bit harsh and in no way should put you off as it is characteristic of the variety.

It’s clean as a whistle, laden with spice and earth with a smattering of mahogany, bitter chocolate and truffle and is a wine that cries out for food rather than a solo effort. The oak sit’s nicely in sync with the fruit and the finish shows good balance…..it’s lovely stuff.

Rated: Very Good
Value: 4 out of 5 stars
RRP: $50
Alcohol: 14%
Closure: Vino-Lok
Drink: 2010-2020
Tasted: 7/12/09 Open Label
Importer: Deja Vu Wines

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I grit my teeth regularly these days when I hear that somebody is “bored of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc” and that they are looking for something new. It’s not because I don’t think that people shouldn’t be looking for something better than Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, but it’s their motivation for doing so that annoys me  and the likelihood they’ll make the same mistake again.

This is what happens when you drink one style of wine to the exclusion of all others. When a fad burns too bright, it is inevitably destined to fade. It happened to Chardonnay, it will happen to Sauvignon Blanc and it will also happen to whatever becomes trendy next.

I’m all for having short lived obsessions, bursts of enthusiasm when you just want to try as many of a particular style or region as you can.  I also think its fine to have “go to” brands that make up the majority of your purchases and whom you trust enough to buy blind from a wine list if you need to.

But in wine, variety really is the spice of life. Even when you are in the middle of, for example, a Burgundy obsession you do need to keep a perspective and respect for all the worlds wine styles.  Keeping a variety and balance in your consumption ensures that your palate stays refreshed and your interest engaged. It is also the best idea during any meal, both from a food and wine matching perspective and to avoid palate fatigue, to vary the wines throughout the evening, ideally building from light bodied to full bodied wines.

This is not to say I support the current race of one upmanship and marketing desperation of trying to produce / sell / drink the most obscure varietal possible. It used to be good enough to dazzle with Sicilian or Sardinian wines, then it was Slovakian whites and Austrian reds, next no doubt it will be deeper into Eastern Europe and obscure parts of Italy. The problem in this rush is that truly great wines from long established regions get ignored for the ego boost of winning an options game.

I am in fact saying the complete opposite – there are indeed grape varieties that are fundamentally superior to others and these varieties should form the basis of your consumption – regardless of fad or fashion.   But how do you avoid boredom? There are two simple ways.

One: Continue to drink your preferred grape variety but alternate the region it is from. This will inevitably change the style of wine (from slightly to massively) and keep you interested.

Two: Add to your drinking mix a couple of grape varieties that you are not familiar with but are similar to the style of wine that you prefer. You don’t need to go obscure to achieve this, some of the world’s most historic wine regions can help here.

In the fight against boredom here are my recommendations on alternatives for some of the best loved wine styles:

Riesling

Regional Alternative 

European Riesling can be tricky due to the labelling system in each country and sweetness of many of the wines. Germany and Austria are making some of the world’s most exciting wines, so for a simple comparison opt for dry German Riesling, either labelled this way or with words such as Kabinett and Trocken

Varietal Alternative                      

I would simply stay with Riesling but experiment with sweet styles such as Auslese (a German late harvest style). These wines have incredible palate weight and length but are balanced so beautifully by crisp mineral acidity to be beautiful food wines

Chardonnay

You can find Chardonnay just about everywhere. Whilst France is the spiritual home and unquestioned leader, its global success means you’ll also find a mountain of it in Spain, Italy and elsewhere. I prefer to drink indigenous varieties from these countries, as commercial Chardonnay can lack character.

Cool Climate Chardonnay

Regional Alternative                     

Burgundy is the unquestioned king of Chardonnay, led by stellar names such as Puligny Montrachet, however to find value you may need to look to less fashionable appellations such as St. Aubin or the lean, crisp wines of Chablis.

Varietal Alternative                      

A rich, textural Arneis from mountainous Piedmont in the north west of Italy or an Albarino from Rias Baixas can offer the same balance of fruit power and elegant acidity.

Full Bodied Chardonnay

Regional Alternative                     

If you prefer richer and more textured Chardonnay, then Mersault or warmer appellations such as Macon or Pouilly Fuisse from Burgundy may be your thing.

Varietal Alternative                      

The white wines of the northern Rhone (Viognier from Condrieu or Hermitage Blanc) will offer texture and fruit intensity but are expensive.  Marsanne / Roussanne Blends from the southern Rhone offer complexity and power at a more affordable price.

Sauvignon Blanc

Regional Alternative                     

The Loire Valley to the south east of Paris is the home to appellations such as Sancerre, famed for complex and minerally Sauvignon Blanc. The cooler regions in the south of France also produce interesting Sauvignon.

Varietal Alternative                      

The Marlborough “Grassy Punch” is fairly unique but Pinot Grigio from Lombardy, younger, fresher Soave from the north of Italy or unoaked Albarino from Rias Baixas in the west of Spain offer crisp, zesty drinking with a touch of complexity.

Pinot Grigio

Regional Alternative                     

If you aren’t drinking Italian Pinot Grigio already, then the wines of Friuli in north eastern Italy will hit the spot. Make sure to look for as recent a vintage as possible (2009 vintage wines are not far away) and screwcap. If you are already on the bus, then the refined and pure wines from the higher altitude of Lombardy will be a great alternative.

Pinot Gris from Alsace in the mountainous north of France is the same variety but a very different style, much heavier and richer. The styles are so different that I would not recommend the average Pinot Gris to a dedicated Pinot Grigio lover.

Varietal Alternative                      

Soave from the Veneto region (near Venice in northern Italy) offers an additional level of interest and complexity. Out of left field, a young and fresh Rueda Verdejo is almost between the Gris and Grigio style with lovely fruit weight but bright acidity.

Pinot Noir

Regional Alternative                     

There is only one Burgundy – unique, profound and long lived Pinot Noir.  The wines are expensive but a Bourgogne from a quality maker will offer complexity and precise varietal character. Cooler regions in the south of France such as the Aude Valley offer easy drinking and generous Pinot Noir.

Varietal Alternative                      

There is probably nothing quite like Burgundy but a number of regions offers lovely medium bodied red wines. The better Gamay based wines from Beaujolais just to the south (and officially part of the greater Burgundy region) offer excellent value. Dolcetto from Piedmont in north western Italy possess excellent drinkability and beautiful fruit flavours.

Cool climate Cabernet Sauvignon

For example the powerful, structured and tannic wines of Coonawarra.

Regional Alternative                     

Bordeaux is my least favourite region to recommend, due to questionable value and inconsistency. But in a good vintage (recently 2005 and 2008), the Cabernet Sauvignon dominant wines of the “left bank” – Pauiliac, St. Julien, Margaux can possess outstanding class and complexity.

Varietal Alternative                      

The Nebbiolo based Barolo wines from Piedmont are blessed with the wine world’s most evocative aromatics. Complex and layered, the nose of a Barolo continues to become more expressive with time. The wines are well structured and tannic so need time but respond brilliantly to cellaring – sounds familiar?

Warm climate Cabernet Sauvignon

The rare but prized rich and full bodied powerhouses from Barossa Valley.

Regional Alternative                     

That sort of richness and power is almost impossible to find in Europe. Out of Bordeaux you are talking a very good year of a “Parker favourite” such as Jean Luc Thunevin, but really Napa Cabernet would be closer.

Varietal Alternative                      

Rioja Tempranillo is often described as being similar and certainly the wines from the flatter areas come close. The wines have rich and expressive fruit with a savoury character and clearly defined structure. They can also be pretty good value.

Cabernet Merlot

The medium to full bodied, complex and savoury wines from Margaret  River

Regional Alternative                     

Bordeaux is much more consistent in this zone, particularly at sensible price points when (and this is a big when) well chosen or recommended. In addition to the left bank wines described above, the Merlot dominant wines of St. Estephe and Pomerol can be excellent (but not cheap) whilst generic appellations can offer interest at lower price points.

Varietal Alternative                      

Tuscany is the place to try. The Cabernet Sauvignon / Sangiovese blends grouped as “Super Tuscans” join the best of Cabernet, with savoury complexity and elegance of good Sangiovese. The better Sangiovese based wines such as Chianti Classico or the closely related Brunello di Montalcino will also really please the Margaret River Cabernet fan.

Cool climate Shiraz

Elegant and refined wines from Grampians or Mornington with minty aromas and plum and mulberry flavours.

Regional Alternative                     

Pretty easy this one – the dramatic and precise Shiraz based wines of the Northern Rhone. The big names are Hermitage and Cotes Rotie (which made the Shiraz Viognier blend famous) but I would target Cornas, Saint Joseph and Crozes Hermitage for quality and value. Try to avoid generic wines and choose regional specialists – the lift, structure and flavour may prove challenging (somewhat like licking granite) but will prove very rewarding.

Varietal Alternative                      

Cooler climate wines such as Barbera from Piedmont offer the same level of rich berry flavours and supple texture whilst also delivering subtle savoury complexity.

Warm climate Shiraz

Australia’s gift to the wine world – monumental fruit and oak driven Barossa Shiraz

Regional Alternative                     

There isn’t really one, you can find some Northern Rhone wines in a similar mould, but that is due to more extreme winemaking rather than what the region does well. The wines of the Southern Rhone are not 100% Shiraz, indeed most are Grenache dominant. But what Grenache! Dense and layered fruit that blends with Shiraz to make gorgeously rich and sensual wines. Gigondas are usually the fullest bodied followed by Chateauneuf du Pape who trade outright power for class, complexity and ultimately quality.

Varietal Alternative                      

The Grenache based wines of Priorat in north eastern Spain are extremely fashionable these days due to the power and intensity. Many wines, often made by flying winemakers, are chasing Parker scores by making styles even bigger than Australian Shiraz – not for the faint hearted. Nero d’Avola from Sicily is fast gaining a reputation for beautifully rich but balanced wines.

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Nick’s approach to driving is to treat lanes as a general suggestion. This does smooth out the curves and I have no doubt it works very well in Formula One. The wave-like motion of our trip from Paris to Beaune (occasional blast of truck horn aside) was a mere point of conversation – where it became a bit more interesting was the tight mountain roads and blind corners of Piedmont.

Grinzane Cavour in Piedmont

Our affable host Bernard, now gripping the passenger roof handle with white knuckles, adopted a tone similar to the commandant in Hogan’s Heroes “please you MUST return to our side of the road for the hairpin corners” and “NO it is not Allah’s will”.

For those of you who have not been to Piedmont, which included me until recently, the region is best imagined as a network of steep sided valleys lined almost exclusively with terraced vineyards and with each ridge topped by tall, multi story buildings. I think the Piemontese built the ski resort at Mount Hotham – the idea being to find a steep, exposed ridge and put an equally steep and exposed building right on top of it.

The good folk of Grinzane Cavour, the small town just south of Alba where we headed for dinner, took this trend to its ultimate conclusion building one of the more impressive sights of the region, the imposing Castello Grinzane.

Castello Grinzane at night

Dating back to the 12th century the square, high tower has been impeccably restored. The castle’s history is most notable for being the residence during 1832 – 1849 of Count Camillo Benso di Cavour, generally considered to be mastermind of the unification of Italy.

To my mind, the restoration goes almost too far, with none of the worn steps and ancient beams of other castles. Everything is spotless and whilst beautiful, could be a good 600 years younger. The Castello is jointly owned by the municipalities of Alba and Grinza and on its lower floors hosts the Museum of Langhe and the Cavour Piemontese Regional Enoteca. Amongst other things it is home to the “Order of the Knights of the White Truffle” – who sound like the last guys you’d want to be with in a fight but the first guys you’d invite to a dinner party.

The reason we were here was on the top floor, the “Ristorante al Castello”. Set alongside a cafe and open dining area more suitable to summer months, the restaurant boasts a beautiful dining room and numerous private spaces. Head Chef is the young Alessandro Boglione, who hails from Bra (home of the slow food movement) and has worked most notably with Ferran Adria. Regardless of his history, the cuisine of Al Castello showed little sign of molecular gastronomy, presenting a fairly pure and precise modern take on traditional classics.

Being in Piedmont in November as guests of Fontanafredda you could guess the meal was going to centre around two things – Barolo and White Truffles. There is a time and a place for a 195 Euro Truffle menu but it is probably not a table of ten new acquaintances, so we chose the “Menu Tradizione” degustation with the addition of white truffles on a few courses. A very reasonable 38 Euro plus truffles for five courses.

A brace of Fontanafredda sparkling started proceedings, an initially austere “Vigna Gatinera” Alta Langa DOC Method Champenoise was followed by the flagship 2004 Contessa Rosa. The Contessa showed a fine balance of aged complexity and freshness withgood length. Top class Italian sparkling.

A 2008 Pradalupo Roero Arneis also displayed admirable balance, demonstrating the depth, richness of flavour and viscosity this varietal is capable of whilst avoiding becoming too heavy. A beautiful wine that will be clearly better when bottled in screwcap. Funnily enough at the next table was a delegation from the local appellation authority. Great people the Italians, very proud of their culture but not quite as myopic as the French. You want screwcap you crazy Australians – sure why not? There is a bit of an issue with the law on DOCG wines (the top echelon of appellation) which was brought in quite rightly to stop plastic corks but we think we’ll have that solved by March, when we plan to bring in some of these wines under screwcap.

First up was the universal amuse, a shot of a powerfully flavoured soup. It was beautiful but I have forgotten what it was. I am guessing it would have been truffle flavoured, thick and intense…

Battuata al coltello

The first course was “Battuta al coltello” – hand-minced raw veal. I had been trying to find tartare since arriving in in France a week before so I was glad to get the hit. More subtle than the French version with no added spice, the texture and quality of the veal was showcased nicely.

A traditional dish of Bra Sausage was tempting but you couldn’t go past the “Vitello tonnato tradizione” – veal with a tuna sauce. A modern and clean version, about as far as you could get from a rustic trattoria’s version but again an excellent showcase of the quality of the produce. This was almost the kind of dish you would expect to see in a top class Australian restaurant. I tend to find that European restaurants focus more on “secondary” flavours – sauces etc rather than the key ingredient. Both approaches have their benefits and are equally great when done well.

Next up was “Plin di Fonduta” – hand-pinched pasta filled with fondue – and in this case covered in shavings of a very big, very fresh white truffle. Now this you won’t find easily in Australia – the quality of truffle maybe, the largesse in which it was waved around unlikely. The pasta was rich, creamy and a perfect backdrop for the beautifully textured and aromatic truffles to do their stuff.

By this time we had embarked on a trio of Fontanafredda “La Rosa” single vineyard Barolos from the highly regarded 2004, 2001 and 1999 vintages. La Rosa is the vineyard directly above the winery and is quality wise in the middle of the trio. The Fontanafredda style is ‘moderate modernistic’ – approachable with rich fruit and ripe, still pronounced tannins.

The 2004 was the richest and most powerful of the three, a result not just of its youth but a stylistic evolution. It is a very good wine withvery ripe fruit and fine powdery tannins, years away from maturity. The 2001 was the star of the show. Over the two days the 2001 vintage wines continued to shine, displaying fruit richness equal to the more storied 2000 vintage but retaining a degree of elegance and showing excellent balance, complexity and class. Starting to drink nicely now, they have many years ahead of them. The 1999 vintage is a more “traditionally” styled wine, which doesn’t mean bretty but a touch less ripe and a touch more savoury. This is certainly a very good wine, not to the standard of the 2001, but perhaps not showing its best at this age.

Leg of guinea fowl with black truffle and chicory

The main course was “Leg of guinea fowl with black truffle and chicory”. This was a more traditionally styled dish with beautifully slow cooked meat and a very strong but welcome sauce. The truffle was much more in the background in the dish, demonstrating that truffle can sometimes be a component not the star. This was a very successful dish and great with the 2001 Barolo.

By this stage a recurring issue I and many others have with Italian restaurants had really started to nag. This is the complete absence of any side dishes – vegetables, salads or otherwise. They have got the produce and it would really benefit these rich dishes to offer a bit of diversity and give the palate some respite.

Dessert was, as it is in many top class restaurants, a highlight with a dedicated professional who was on top of his game. From staples such as Panna Cotta to “Converso – Gianduja chocolate cream mousse with dried orange”, each dish was excellent.

I would like to dine again at Al Castello to experience the restaurant in a more intimate setting – as opposed to a ten seat round. I would like to do this because despite being an extremely professional restaurant with excellent food and quality, experienced staff in every position and despite the truly beautiful castle and dining room, I would not call it a memorable experience.

Perhaps the ‘globalisation’ of the experience – pristine food you might find in best Italian restaurants of New York, Singapore or Melbourne was to blame. Or perhaps it was the overly restored castle and general ‘corporate’ feel. Maybe it was that I was just jealous I didn’t get the 195 Euro truffle menu. Somewhere in the mix of pure flavours and produce I would have liked a bit more character, complexity and bravery – plus of course those vegetables. I would have been happy with a few mistakes to get a few gems, something I couldn’t have found at home. On the experience of one visit Ristorante al Castello is a great place to take clients but not such a great place to discover Italy.

Rating: 3 out of 5 stars

Ristorante al Castello
via Castello, 5
12060 Grinzane Cavour
(p) 0173 / 262172
www.castellogrinzane.com
Closed Tuesdays and all January

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